Five years since the Rana Plaza tragedy in Bangladesh, Jean Lambert MEP celebrates the success of the Bangladesh Accord which has changed the lives of 2.5 million workers in the country’s garment sector.

In her article for Left Foot Forward, Jean has urged brands to sign-up to the Accord’s replacement which is due to be implemented next month. She has also warns that the UK Government must continue to use its trade agreements to improve human rights elsewhere after Brexit.

Read the full piece below, or on Left Foot Forward here.

Five years since Rana Plaza, we must all learn lessons from the Bangladesh Accord

Five years ago this week, more than 3,000 people arrived to work at the garment factories in the Rana Plaza building in Dhaka, Bangladesh. It was just a normal work day, manufacturing clothes for big name global brands such as Benetton and Primark.

Many of the workers were aware the building was badly constructed; cracks had begun to appear in the walls. Some companies had told workers not come in. However, nobody foresaw the tragedy that was to occur. At 9am, the entire five-floor complex collapsed like a house of cards. Some 1,134 people were killed and another 2,500 injured – overwhelmingly women and children. It was one of the deadliest industrial disasters in history.

Sadly, the catastrophe was indicative of widespread problems across the country’s garment sector. In Bangladesh, 3.5 million workers work in more than 4,000 garment factories to produce goods for export to the global market. Some 85% of these workers are women, and they generate about 80% of the country’s total export revenue. Too often these workers are paid little more than minimum wage and face poor conditions. Sexual harassment and discrimination is widespread, and factory management can prevent the formation of genuine trade unions.

This February, I visited Bangladesh to follow-up on whether workers’ rights and factory safety have improved in the five years since the Rana Plaza disaster.

As Chair of the European Parliament’s South Asia delegation, I have made this trip a number of times – meeting politicians, trade union representatives, factory owners, and the workers whose livelihoods depend on bleaching, cutting and stitching our clothes.

It’s clear that the situation is still far from perfect. However, despite competing pressures on the government (including an influx of a million Rohingya refugees on its border with Myanmar), progress has been made in the fields of fire and building safety.

This is partly a result of the Bangladesh Accord, which was signed in the wake of the Rana Plaza building collapse, bringing together brands and trades unions and chaired by the ILO. The agreement commits more than 200 global fashion brands and retailers, who signed up voluntarily, to improve conditions in 1,800 factories across the country. In five years, it has had a direct impact on the lives of more than 2.5 million garment workers.

The Accord requires brands to disclose which Bangladeshi factories are in their supply chains. They must also conduct independent building inspections, provide training on workers’ rights, and ensure that all have the right to refuse unsafe work. Most importantly, the agreement is legally-binding. Last year, two unnamed fashion brands found themselves in the dock at The Hague, forced to pay significant settlements after flouting the terms of the Accord.

When the agreement expires next month, it will be replaced with an updated version. This will build on the foundations of the original deal, and extend protections to workers who manufacture non-garment textiles. Each of the major UK signatories to the initial Accord have now re-signed (finally, Sainsbury’s).

However, a number of non-UK brands have so far refused to put pen to paper, including Abercrombie & Fitch. The worst offenders are arguably those who failed to sign the first Accord and continue to ignore the existence of the new deal – the likes of GAP, Nike, Levis, Decathlon and VF Corporation (owner of Vans, Timberland, Wrangler and The North Face).

The dedication of some brands and factory owners is helping to change both attitudes and peoples’ daily lives in Bangladesh, and the impact that the Accord has had on building safety in just five years is unprecedented. Most factories covered by the policy have now completed over 90% of the renovations required following inspections.

Importantly, the Accord does not only raise questions for Bangladesh. Across the world, millions of garment workers face dangerous and discriminatory conditions. If brands and retailers in the sector are serious about improving workers’ rights, they should be seeking to apply the principles and framework of the Accord elsewhere.

The UK Government would also be advised to pay attention to the principles of the Accord. During my years working within the European Union, I have been proud of its genuine commitment to improving workers’ rights worldwide.

Will the UK continue to use its trade agreements to improve human rights elsewhere after Brexit? Unfortunately, I fear that the leaders of our new “global Britain” only have their own interests at heart.

Jean Lambert is the Green Party MEP for London and is Chair of the European Parliament’s South Asia delegation.

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Next week marks the anniversary of the Rana Plaza tragedy, which claimed the lives of 1,134 people and injured approximately 2,500. Five years on from the building collapse, many people continue to work in dangerous and exploitative conditions in garment factories across Bangladesh.

The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh (also know as the ‘Bangladesh Accord’), signed in the wake of the catastrophe, committed more than 220 global garment brands and retailers to improve working conditions in their factories in the country. This protects more than 2.1 million workers in over 1,600 factories. When the agreement expires in May, it is hoped that all signatories will re-commit to a replacement Transition Accord.

With less than a month to go until current Accord expires, there is only one major UK brand that has failed to sign the new agreement: Sainsbury’s.

Jean Lambert, London’s Green MEP and Chair of the European Parliament’s South Asia delegation, has written to Sainsbury’s Chief Executive Mike Coupe urging his company to sign the Transition Accord.

Click here to read Jean’s letter to Sainsbury’s Chief Executive Mike Coupe, or read the full text below.

17 April 2018

Dear Mr Coupe,

Signing 2018 Bangladesh Accord

24 April will be the fifth anniversary of the devastating Rana Plaza building collapse in Dhaka, Bangladesh in which 1,134 workers were killed and over 2,000 were permanently injured.

Following Rana Plaza, the Bangladesh Accord was set up as a legally binding agreement between brands, retailers and trade unions to ensure a safe working environment in Bangladesh’s ready made garment industry.

I am writing to you because Sainsbury’s signed the 2013 Bangladesh Accord but has not yet signed the 2018 Accord. This replaces the current Accord, which lapses in May 2018.

As Chair of the European Parliament’s South Asia Delegation I have led numerous Parliamentary missions to Bangladesh following the Rana Plaza disaster, taking a close interest in safety in the garment industry. As part of these I have met trade unions, the ILO, garment manufacturers and fashion brand managers. I have seen the value of the Accord and would like to stress the importance of companies reaffirming their commitments by continuing as signatories to the 2018 Accord.

The Accord’s purpose is to enable a working environment in which no worker needs to fear fires, building collapses, or other accidents that could be prevented with reasonable health and safety measures. During its five years, it has delivered important progress.

It covers more than 2.1 million workers and over 1,600 factories. Each factory covered by the Accord is independently inspected for fire, electrical and structural safety. The inspection reports are shared with factory owners, the related Accord signatory companies and worker representatives. The Accord also provides a ground-breaking and essential legally binding framework and commitment to transparency.

Since the Rana Plaza tragedy, the Bangladeshi garment industry has grown – it is now estimated at US$6.6 billion in annual revenue —and so has the Accord’s importance. The new 2018 Accord extends independent, expert building safety inspections for three more years for all covered factories, ensuring that safety improvements achieved under the first Accord will be maintained and that new problems in any factory will be addressed.

At the time of writing, 143 companies have now signed up to the 2018 Accord. These include many UK high street companies such as Debenhams, John Lewis, Marks and Spencer, Morrisons, Next, Primark, and Tesco, and a large number of well-known international brands.

I am writing to urge Sainsbury’s to join these companies and also sign up to the 2018 Accord. I would be very pleased to hear if this letter has been overtaken by events and your company has already decided to sign up.

I look forward to your assurance on this important issue

Yours sincerely,

Jean Lambert MEP
Green Party Member of the European Parliament for London

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Today cross-party MEPs voted strongly in approval of adopting new rules to protect people working in the garment sector. The “flagship initiative” was adopted with 500 MEPs in favour, 57 against, and 49 abstentions [1].

The resolution calls for the Commission to table a binding legislative proposal for a due diligence system based on OECD guidelines that covers the entire garment supply chain [2]. This would include legislating for:

• The right of workers to join and form a union and engage in collective bargaining

• Regular payment of an adequate wage

• Women’s empowerment and children’s rights

• Health and safety protection for all workers

• Encouraging the EU to support developing countries in the adoption and implementation of international standards and conventions

• Providing consumers with clear, trustworthy information about where their clothes come from

After the 2013 Rana Plaza garment factory tragedy in Bangladesh which killed more than 1,100 workers, the European Commission pledged to table an EU-wide flagship initiative to boost responsible management of the garment industry. However, it has so far failed to do so. This proposal is a call to the Commission to legislate to protect garment workers worldwide.

Jean Lambert, London’s Green MEP and member of the Committee on Employment and Social Affairs says:

“The cross-party support for this resolution sends a strong message to the Commission: it’s time for them to stop stalling on their earlier pledge to boost responsible management of the garment industry.

Across the world 75 million garment workers are often forced to work extremely long hours in dangerous conditions for low wages. Most are young women, and some are children. They are often banned from forming trade unions. Verbal and physical abuse are common, and sexual harassment and discrimination are rife. These deeply-entrenched problems are too often allowed to continue by brands which turn a blind eye to such activities – relinquishing responsibility for their supply chains, or simply losing track of where their clothes come from.

In 2017, we can and should do better – voluntary initiatives can only go so far. This resolution seeks to introduce a compulsory reporting system and due diligence for garment products entering the EU market. It would require companies to keep track of working conditions along their entire supply chain, and be held responsible if they fail to do so.

We urge the Commission to take firm action which would transform millions of lives by making these proposals a reality.”

​[1] http://www.europarl.europa.eu/news/en/news-room/20170424IPR72039/textile-imports-meps-push-for-eu-rules-to-curb-worker-exploitation

[2] http://www.europarl.europa.eu/sides/getDoc.do?pubRef=-//EP//TEXT+REPORT+A8-2017-0080+0+DOC+XML+V0//EN

ENDS​

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Brussels/London – On 24th April 2013, almost 4,000 people turned up to work at the Rana Plaza garment factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh. It was just another work day, manufacturing apparel for big name brands – orders had recently been taken for clothes from Benetton, Bon Marche, Matalan and Primark

At 8.45am the electricity went out. Seconds later the eight-story building collapsed. Some 1,129 workers were killed, and another 2,500 injured. It was the deadliest garment-factory accident in history.

Today marks the fourth anniversary of this tragedy.

Read Jean’s Thomson Reuters foundation blog to mark four years since Rana Plaza disaster here.

Read her blog to mark the anniversary on the Greens/EFA website here.

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‘Who is paying the real price of our clothing?’ This was the key question at a film screening and debate Jean hosted in the European Parliament to highlight environmental and human rights abuses in the garment industry.

The movie ‘True Cost’ is a ground-breaking documentary film that pulls back the curtain on the human and environmental costs of the fashion industry. There are roughly 40 million garment workers around the world. They are some of the lowest paid workers in the world. In developing countries the industry consistently sees the exploitation of cheap labour and the violation of workers’, women’s, and human rights.

Read more about the movie and watch the trailer at: http://truecostmovie.com/

Jean was joined for a debate by Safia Minney, London-based Fair Trade advocate and founder of ethical fashion company People Tree – www.peopletree.co.uk – who is proof it’s perfectly possible to build ethical and sustainable principles into business planning.

Mario Ivekovic, President of the Croatian trade union Novi Sindikat, and Roel Nieuwenkamp, chair of the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development working party on responsible business conduct also joined the debate.

The event heard what more regulators and consumers can do to get companies to clean up.

Jean said: “One of the legacies of the terrible factory collapse in Bangladesh three years ago that killed more than 1000 people is that global brands now know that consumers will punish them, that campaigners will pursue them and that workers, wherever they are, have a right to work in a fair and safe environment. Legislators and consumers must keep up the pressure on companies to clean up.”

Safia Minney addresses the European Parliament

Later in the month Jean attended the launch of Safia Minney’s book ‘Slow Fashion’ in London. “It’s really important we develop due diligence throughout the whole supply chain process so we can have confidence what we’re wearing didn’t cost somebody their life,” she told the audience.

These events are the latest in Jean’s work in the wake of the Rana Plaza factory collapse disaster in Bangladesh in 2013.

You can pledge to help reduce the cost of fast fashion here.

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Confirmation has today been received that the Rana Plaza Donors Trust Fund has reached its target of $30 million. Campaigners have been lobbying brands and retailers connected to the factory collapse in April 2013 to compensate the victims of one of the worst industrial disasters in recent history, in which over 1100 people lost their lives.

As recently as the 2nd anniversary of the disaster in April this year, the fund was still $2.4m short.

Welcoming the news Jean Lambert, MEP, and chair of the South Asia Delegation said:

‘This shows what happens when a long term campaign is waged. Fair play to the few brands who paid straight away but this has been an unacceptably long, and needless wait for proper compensation by too many people from brands that make billions. Actions can make a difference, and what we must take from this welcome, if overdue campaigning victory is that pressure must be kept up on better regulation of the entire supply chain. One of the legacies of the Rana Plaza disaster is that global brands now know that consumers will punish them, that campaigners will pursue them and that workers, wherever they are, have a right to work in a fair and safe environment.’

The Rana Plaza Donors Trust Fund was set up by the ILO in January 2014 to compensate for loss of income and medical costs of the Rana Plaza workers, mostly women, and their families.

It appears that the fund’s target was reached following a large, yet anonymous, donation.

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• 2 years on, funding gap still exists
• MEP calls on companies to show compassion, not admit liability
• 60% of clothes made in Bangladesh are for the EU

Today is the 2nd anniversary of the Rana Plaza factory collapse in Dhaka, Bangladesh, where over 1100 people died and more than 2500 were injured. London Green MEP Jean Lambert has again urged the remaining retailers and fashion brands who have yet to contribute to the compensation fund for victims to do so without further delay. There remains an USD6million gap in the funding needed to compensate each of the over 5,000 individuals with eligible claims.

To mark the anniversary, this week in the European Parliament Jean Lambert has hosted an exhibition that showcases reportage images taken at the site of the collapse as well as follow-up portraits of survivors. You can see the entire gallery here

In addition, Jean chaired a conference ( you can watch it here) on Wednesday the 22^nd*  that brought together the EU Commissioner for Trade, Cecilia Malmström, with experts and campaigners on the global fashion supply chain industry. Both events are to mark the 2^nd anniversary of the disaster and to emphasise the need for the fashion industry to take more responsibility for the safety and working conditions of those that supply them.

As Chair of the European Parliament’s Delegation for relations with South Asia, including Bangladesh, Jean has written to those companies who have not yet paid, urging that they make a contribution to the fund. Jean visited Dhaka in December, 2014, to see how working conditions and factory safety have improved since the deadly day two years ago.

Jean said:

‘When I was last in Bangladesh, manufacturers were keen to point out two things: “Bangladesh is not Rana Plaza – do not judge us by that alone” and that “We have to change our mentality – what was ok when we were starting our garment industry is not ok now, standards are different.” There is an opportunity for real change and we cannot let that wither away. Investing in the quality of the industry is a real investment in the empowerment of women who make up the majority of the workforce.

‘The second anniversary of a disaster is less visible but is crucially important if we want to see if things are really changing after that first rush of activity to put things right.

‘It is unacceptable that the compensation fund is still underfunded. It should not go unnoticed that a number of brands, linked to manufacturing at Rana Plaza itself, have not yet contributed to the fund or made the level of their contribution transparent. Paying into the fund means showing compassion, not admitting liability. Building owners and manufacturers bear the primary responsibility.

‘We should be clear that just-in-time fashion and the demand for low prices has been squeezing profit margins. Brands need to pay fair prices, which must translate into fair pay for workers in the industry, not simply additional profit for the owners. Shoppers should also be prepared to pay fair prices and demand supply-chain responsibility. This is about transforming the sector for all workers – not creating niche products.’

Jean concluded:

‘Effective trade unions are essential to ensure fair pay and worker safety, whether in Bangladesh, Myanmar or Manchester: that’s why the Sustainability Compact between the EU and Bangladeshi Government, backed by the ILO, is so important.’

Campaigners have worked for almost two years to secure tens of millions of dollars in compensation from a global industry that turns over tens of billions in profit.

The Rana Plaza factory collapse showed Europe the price paid by others for our clothes, with Bangladesh the 2^nd largest exporter of garments in the world; 60% destined for the EU.

*Attendees include EU Commissioner for Trade, Cecilia Malmström, Deputy Director General of the ILO, Sandra Polaski, Members of the European Parliament, Ambassadors and Embassy officials, NGOs, European brands, and trade unions.

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You can watch here for a live streaming on Wednesday afternoon of a conference called “Remembering Rana Plaza: The road ahead”. It’s happening in the European Parliament at 15.00 – 17.30. (GMT+2) so if you are watching from the UK please tune in at 2.00 pm, but if you are in Brussels, it will be live at 3.00 pm.

Jean Lambert, as Chair of the South Asia Delegation will open the conference, and speakers will include Professor Jennifer Bair, University of Colorado, who will present on the technical aspects of the global supply chain.

Commissioner Malmström will speak on the Global Sustainability Compact, Deputy Director General Sandra Polaski, ILO, will talk about the inclusion of labour rights in garment supply chains.

Ambassador Ismat Jahan, Embassy of Bangladesh to the EU, will provide an update about the steps the Government and other civil society actors in Bangladesh have taken to improve the garment sector

Sam Maher, of Clean Clothes Campaign, will speak about how raising consumer and brand awareness in Europe can help improve the situation of garment workers worldwide.

The conference will then wrap with a debate. This is a comprehensive and incisive look at the entire supply chain, and the work that is being done as well as progress  made – while making sure that lives are not cheaply lost to supply Europe (and the world) with high-street clothes.

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The Rana Plaza factory complex on the outskirts of the Bangladesh capital Dacca – which contained several garment factories making clothes for sale on the British High Street – collapsed on April 24th, leaving more than 1,000 dead and over 2,500 injured.

Green MEPs are demanding that all retailers sourcing their clothes from Bangladesh sign up to the Bangladesh Fire and Building Safety Agreement – and contribute to compensation to all the disaster’s victims and their families.

Greens are calling for health and safety agreements to form a binding part of all trade deals between the EU and other nations – and for Bangladesh to step up its efforts to prevent illegal building construction, and to ensure that workers’ rights to play a role in improving workplace safety becomes a reality.

Ms Lambert said: “Our first thoughts about this disaster are, of course, with the victims and their families.

“But we must recognise that the government of Bangladesh is making great strides in this area – and we must share some of the responsibility, and work towards solutions to prevent any future factory disasters, here in the EU.

“After all, 80% of Bangladesh’s exports are garments, and most of those are eventually sold here in the EU: many women, in particular, rely on this work for their living.

“We must make sure health and safety, and union rights, are at the core of this trade, and that all retailers play their part too: improving the standards they insist on from their suppliers and working with the authorities, workers and producers to achieve that goal.

“It would cost them only 8p per garment sold, for example, to meet the costs of elevating safety standards to western levels within five years.”

MEPs are due to debate a formal EU response to the disaster – and consider the Green proposals – tomorrow.

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